Dirk & Annelies(65)

Dirk was a director at an insurance company, I was a biology teacher. After retirement we did not want to sit still in Zeist. We are both avid hikers and birdwatchers. Madeira, with its 2,500 plant species and unique laurisilva forests, was a dream.

We chose Canico, a quiet coastal town 15 minutes from Funchal. Less hectic than the capital, but with all amenities within reach. Our two-bedroom apartment with sea view costs €750 per month. The Garajau nature reserve is within walking distance.

We filed the NHR application ourselves, without an advisor. The form is available online through the Portal das Financas. You must submit it within the first six months of establishing residence. Our state pension and pensions are now taxed at the flat rate. The saving: approximately €400 per month.

Madeira healthcare is excellent. Hospital Dr. Nelio Mendonca in Funchal has all specialties. Through the SNS we were assigned a GP at the Centro de Saude in Canico. Waiting times for specialists are shorter than in the Netherlands — Dirk had a cardiology appointment within two weeks.

The hiking network is unmatched. There are more than 30 levada routes, from easy to challenging. We hike five days a week and have already completed 25 routes. The PR1 Vereda do Areeiro, from Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo, is the highlight — literally, at 1,862 meters.

What we had not expected: the community. There is an active Dutch hiking club on Madeira, a bridge club and a choir. But our best experiences are with Madeirans themselves — the neighbor who teaches us to make poncha, the woman at the market who recommends espada (swordfish).